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Porosity: the key to finally choosing the right products for your curls
Textured hair guide Porosity: the key to finally choosing the right products for your curls How to recognize it so you can stop guessing and start truly understanding your curly or coily hair. How many times have you bought a hair product hyped as a miracle, only to end up with dull, weighed-down, or still-dry hair? That's not a coincidence, and more importantly, it's not your fault. In most cases, the key lies in a factor people forget to look at: your hair's porosity. Once you understand that, you finally understand why a product works wonders for your friend and does absolutely nothing for your curls. What exactly is porosity? Porosity is simply your hair's ability to absorb and hold onto moisture. It depends on the condition of the cuticle, the thin outer layer made up of tiny scales that covers each strand, much like the shingles on a roof. When the cuticles lie flat against each other, water and product ingredients have a hard time getting in. But once they do get in, they stay put: that's low-porosity hair. On the flip side, when the cuticles are lifted or damaged, moisture gets in easily, but it leaves just as fast. That's high-porosity hair. It's this balance between absorption and retention that determines your porosity type. Why it matters even more for curly and coily hair On a smooth, cylindrical strand, scalp sebum naturally travels down the hair and moisturizes it from root to tip. On a curly or coily strand, the spiral or zigzag structure creates multiple twists that slow this migration down, sometimes stopping it altogether. That's why textured hair is naturally drier, regardless of its starting porosity. It's also why tailoring your routine to your porosity matters so much: two people with similar curls can follow the exact same routine and get completely different results. Low, medium, high porosity: what's the difference? Low Low porosity The cuticles are tight and closed. Water and products have a hard time getting in, but once they do, your hair holds onto moisture well. It dries slowly, and can build up product residue if you use formulas that are too rich. Medium The happy medium The cuticles hold together well while still letting in a moderate amount of moisture. This hair type generally needs less upkeep to stay hydrated and holds its definition more easily. High High porosity The cuticles are lifted or damaged, often from heat, chemical treatments, or repeated manipulation. Moisture gets in fast, but it leaves just as fast, which makes hair more prone to frizz and breakage. Good to know: your porosity isn't set in stone. There's a genetic component, but it also changes with damage that builds up over time (heat, chemical processing, friction). High porosity is often a sign of a weakened hair fiber rather than a fixed trait. The water glass test: is it actually reliable? The famous water glass test is everywhere: drop a clean strand of hair into water, and if it floats, porosity is supposedly low; if it sinks, porosity is supposedly high. It's popular, but this test isn't recognized by trichologists or taught in cosmetology. It's never been scientifically validated. In reality, clean, dry hair initially floats because of water's surface tension, a physical phenomenon that has nothing to do with the strand's actual absorption. Product residue, natural oils, or even the hair's diameter can completely throw off the result. A more reliable method: watch how your hair actually behaves day to day. 1 Drying timeLow porosity takes a long time to dry. High porosity dries almost right away. 2 How it reacts to water and productsIf water beads up on the surface or products tend to build up, your porosity is probably low. If your hair absorbs almost instantly but dries out just as fast, it's probably high. 3 How it feels to the touchSmooth leans toward medium porosity. Dense or coarse leans toward low porosity. Rough, with a slightly bumpy feel, leans toward high porosity. None of these signs is perfect on its own, but tracking them together over a few weeks gives you a much more reliable picture than a one-time test. How to adapt your routine to your porosity Understanding your porosity isn't just a scientific curiosity. It's what explains why your routine should be built around you, not copied from someone else's. Low-porosity hair often needs a bit of heat to help products penetrate, along with lighter textures to avoid buildup. High-porosity hair, on the other hand, needs frequent hydration, along with a step that helps lock that moisture in for longer. And porosity is just one piece of the puzzle. It interacts with your hair's texture, density, and elasticity. It's the combination of all these factors that really lets you understand what your curls or coils need. No matter your porosity, a regular hydrating mask and a curl-defining cream that doesn't leave curls stiff remain must-haves for keeping your curls soft and well hydrated. In summary Your porosity determines how your hair absorbs and holds onto moisture, an especially important factor when you have curly or coily hair, which is naturally more prone to dryness. Rather than relying on an unvalidated at-home test, take the time to observe your hair over the weeks. Knowing your hair is already the first step to taking good care of it. Gisèle xx
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Seasonal shedding : why your hair falls out more at certain times of year
Hair cycle Seasonal shedding: why your hair falls out more at certain times of year A hairbrush that fills up faster in fall, a bit of shedding again in spring: here's what's really going on, and when to worry. Noticed more hair in the drain, on your pillow, or in your brush the last few weeks? Before you panic, there's a good chance it's simply your hair cycle following the seasons. Like the rest of your body, your hair is constantly renewing itself. Every day, dozens of hairs finish their cycle and fall out while others grow back in. At certain times of year, this turnover speeds up for a large portion of your hair all at once, which makes the shedding feel much more noticeable. Why it happens The main trigger is light. The amount of daylight affects melatonin, a hormone that plays a role in how long hair stays in its growth phase (the anagen phase). When daylight shifts noticeably, like at the end of summer or the end of winter, a larger share of follicles switch over to the resting phase almost simultaneously, and then to shedding. There's also a lag to factor in: it usually takes about two to three months between the time a follicle enters its resting phase and the time the hair actually falls out. That's why the most noticeable shedding often shows up a little after the actual change of season, not right on the first day of fall or spring. Fall The most noticeable Usually between September and November. This is the after-effect of summer: the strong light and sun exposure had extended the growth phase for a lot of hair, which is now switching over to the resting phase all at once. Spring More subtle Usually between March and May. Longer days shift melatonin production again. Shedding is usually less intense than in fall, but follows the same pattern. 100–150 hairs lost per day is considered normal, even during seasonal shedding. Hair is living tissue that's constantly renewing itself. How long it lasts A typical seasonal shed lasts anywhere from a few weeks to two or three months, then resolves on its own without any special intervention. It's not permanent hair loss: the follicles that went into their resting phase will start producing new hair again, just like before. When to worry: if the shedding lasts more than six months, if it comes with visible thinning or a widening part, or if it shows up outside of fall and spring for no clear reason, it's worth talking to a hair health professional to rule out another cause (thyroid, a deficiency, major stress, or the start of a more lasting type of hair loss). How to get through this period You can't prevent seasonal shedding, but you can avoid making it worse with a poorly cared-for scalp. 1 Keep your scalp cleanA scalp with product buildup tends to trap hair that's already detached at the root, causing it to shed in more noticeable clumps. 2 Choose purifying care, not harsh careThe goal is to clear away buildup without stripping the scalp, so it keeps its natural balance. 3 Cut back on extra stress factorsHeat styling, coloring, and tight manipulation all add extra strain to follicles that are already in transition. 4 A targeted treatment, if neededSome people do a two-to-three-month nutritional support treatment twice a year, around the seasonal changes. It's not necessary for everyone, but it can help if your hair tends to be more fragile. Seasonal Shedding Shampoo, Térapo Médik Clears away buildup that traps hair already detached at the root Discover → Trichol Tablets, Térapo Médik Vitamin supplement taken as a course to support hair growth Discover → In summary Seasonal shedding is a natural phenomenon tied to light and the hair cycle, not a problem in itself. It mostly shows up in fall, a bit in spring, and usually resolves within two to three months. Keeping your scalp clean and well cared for helps you get through this period without making it worse. If shedding lasts beyond six months or comes with other signs, a consultation can help rule out a different cause and put your mind at ease. Gisèle xx
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Why Your Hair Changes After 40
Hair & Hormones Why Your Hair Changes After 40 Understanding how hormones really affect your hair, so you can adjust your routine instead of chasing the hair you used to have. Have you noticed that your hair just doesn't behave the way it used to? Maybe it's drier, finer, your part looks wider, or a few grey hairs seem to be showing up sooner than expected. You're not imagining it, and your routine didn't suddenly stop working overnight. After 40, your body goes through a real hormonal transition, and your hair, just like your skin, feels the effects. What's Really Happening in Your Body Perimenopause, the transition phase before menopause, often begins between the ages of 40 and 50, and sometimes even earlier. Estrogen levels start to decline well before your periods stop completely, often so gradually that you may not notice it right away. Hair follicles are sensitive to these hormones. Estrogen helps extend the anagen phase, the active growth phase of the hair cycle, which helps keep hair thicker and stronger. As estrogen levels drop, follicles spend less time growing and more time resting. Hair can then become finer, shorter and more prone to shedding. There's also another, lesser-known effect: estrogen helps balance the influence of androgens, hormones that are often thought of as male hormones but are naturally present in women too. As estrogen levels decline, androgens can have a relatively stronger effect, which may cause some follicles to shrink over time, similar to what happens with androgenetic alopecia. The Most Common Changes I Finer, Less Dense Hair About 40% of women over 50 experience noticeable hair loss related to menopause, and it often begins during perimenopause. The part may appear wider and the hair at the crown may become thinner. It's usually not an all-over type of hair loss. II Drier, More Fragile Hair Lower estrogen levels can also mean less sebum production. The scalp and hair fibre aren't as naturally lubricated as they once were, which can leave hair feeling drier, rougher and more prone to breakage. III Grey Hair Going grey is a little different. It's mainly caused by the natural aging of the follicle's pigment-producing cells and by genetics, rather than by menopausal hormones themselves. It simply tends to happen around the same stage of life, which can make it feel like everything is changing at once. IV A Change in Texture Straight hair may become slightly wavy. Curly hair may lose some of its definition. This can partly be linked to a finer hair fibre being produced by follicles that are changing over time. How to Adjust Your Hair Routine Your scalp produces less sebum and the hair fibre becomes more fragile. A few simple adjustments can make a real difference. Wash Less Often Washing already-dry hair too frequently can make dryness worse. Let your scalp's actual needs guide you instead of sticking to an old routine out of habit. Focus on Gentle Care Gentle products that respect the scalp's natural barrier can make a difference at this stage, especially because that barrier can become more fragile as hormone levels decline. Support Scalp Circulation A few minutes of scalp massage each day can help support circulation around the roots, which naturally tends to slow with age. Reduce Extra Stress on the Hair Heat styling, frequent colouring and tight hairstyles can add even more stress to hair that's already more vulnerable. Adapt, Don't Copy Your Old Routine The routine that worked for you at 25 may not be the one your hair needs at 45. Reassess your needs from time to time, just like you would with your skincare routine. When to See a Professional If you notice significant hair loss, a rapidly widening part or bald patches, it's best to speak with a dermatologist or trichologist. These professionals can help identify the cause and determine whether the hair loss is related to hormonal changes or something else, such as a thyroid issue, a nutritional deficiency or stress, so you can get the right guidance and treatment. After 40, declining estrogen levels can genuinely change the way your hair grows, retains moisture and ages. It may become finer, drier and sometimes greyer, although greying is mainly related to age and genetics rather than hormones. Understanding what's happening makes it easier to adjust your routine with your hair's changing needs in mind, instead of trying to recreate the hair you had years ago. And if anything concerns you, a hair or medical professional is always the best person to turn to. Gisèle xx
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How to choose the right heat styling tool for your hair
Buying guide How to choose the right heat styling tool for your hair Blow dryer, flat iron, curling iron, hot brush: what actually matters before you invest in a new tool. A drawer full of heat tools that never quite give you the result you were hoping for, sound familiar? Heat acts directly on the hair fiber. Choose the wrong temperature, low-quality materials, or a tool that doesn't suit your hair texture, and you end up with dryness, breakage, and duller hair. The right tool, on the other hand, styles faster with fewer passes, which means less total heat exposure. What to check before you buy Adjustable temperature Multiple heat settings let you match the temperature to your hair type. Some high-performing tools rely on a single optimized temperature instead, but either way, running on maximum heat every day weakens hair over time. Plate material Ceramic, tourmaline, or titanium, each has its strengths (we cover this in detail in our article on plate technologies). Unprotected bare metal surfaces are best avoided. Power For hot-air tools, more power means less time spent exposed to heat, which is especially useful for thick hair. Ease of use Weight, balance, grip: these matter more than people think, especially if you're styling your own hair (or your clients') every day. The blow dryer, your everyday essential The most used tool day to day, and often the most overlooked when shopping. Look at the wattage (the higher it is, the faster drying goes on thick hair), the weight, the heat and speed settings, and whether it has ionic technology to cut down on frizz. Curling iron and wand The barrel diameter directly determines the result: the smaller it is, the tighter the curls; the wider it is, the looser and more natural the waves. Also look at the materials and how precise the adjustable temperature is. Multi-styler (air and heat) These tools combine airflow and heat to dry and style in a single step. They simplify your routine, limit heat exposure (one pass instead of blow-drying then styling), and offer several looks with just one device. Ideal for quick routines and a natural blowout finish. Hot air brush It combines hot airflow with a styling brush to dry and style at the same time, on damp or partially dried hair. Look at the coating (ceramic gives a gentler heat), the heat settings, and the barrel diameter, matched to your hair length. Heated styling brush Different from the hot air brush: it works without airflow and is meant for dry hair only, to quickly smooth and tame it. Perfect for daily touch-ups or a blowout look without the intensity of a flat iron. Check that the heated surface is well coated and that the diameter matches the volume you're going for. What people often forget A companion product: a heat protectant applied before every styling session, to limit the damage heat causes directly to the hair fiber. An accessory: a heat-resistant mat, to safely set down your tools while they're still hot. Two simple additions, but essential ones, that protect your hair just as much as your countertop. How to make the right choice The right heat tool depends on your hair texture, how often you use it, and how much control over temperature you're looking for. Taking the time to choose well means a more precise, longer-lasting result, and most importantly, healthier hair in the long run. Gisèle xx
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Ceramic, tourmaline, or titanium: what's the real difference?
Heat styling tools Ceramic, tourmaline, or titanium: what's the real difference? Manufacturers love these three words. Here's what they actually do to your hair, without the marketing jargon. Gentle heat, anti-frizz, intense heat: three promises you'll find on almost every flat iron box. But what's actually behind each one? What the plates are made of really does change how your hair responds to heat. Here are the three most common technologies, what they actually do, and who they're best suited for. Three technologies, three ways of heating Ceramic Gentle, even heat The most common base material for plates. Unlike bare metal, which creates localized hot spots, ceramic spreads heat evenly across the whole surface. That means a gentler smoothing effect, with less risk of scorching one section of hair. The trade-off: it heats up a bit more slowly than titanium, and a lower-end model can lack the power needed for very thick or very curly hair. Ideal for: fine, normal, or slightly wavy hair, and anyone just starting out with heat styling tools. Titanium Intense heat, fast results A metal that conducts heat very efficiently and heats up almost instantly, holding steady even when you move quickly through thick hair. It's also lighter, which means less wrist fatigue. The trade-off: that intensity calls for more caution. On fine, weakened, or colored hair, running it at full power can cause damage faster than a ceramic tool would. Ideal for: thick, very curly, coily, or hard-to-tame hair. Tourmaline The anti-frizz layer A crystalline mineral that, ground into a fine powder and built into the plates, releases negative ions when heated. Hair builds up a positive charge, which causes frizz and static. The negative ions neutralize that charge, which visually smooths the cuticle for a sleeker finish. It never stands alone: it's always applied as a coating over a ceramic or titanium base. Ideal for: hair prone to frizz and static, regardless of thickness. A bit of nuance: while the anti-static effect of negative ions is real on a physical level, independent evidence on exactly how much benefit it provides (drying time, smoothness) is still limited. Most of the data comes from manufacturers themselves rather than independent clinical studies. That doesn't mean the technology doesn't work, but the boldest claims are worth taking with a grain of salt. So, which one should you choose? In reality, most professional-quality flat irons don't rely on just one of these technologies, they combine them: a ceramic or titanium base for heat, plus a tourmaline coating for the anti-frizz effect. The real decision comes down to two questions: how thick and textured your hair is, and what temperature your routine calls for. For most hair types, a tool that combines all three technologies gives you the best balance of gentleness, power, and a smooth finish. For thick, very curly, or especially stubborn hair, a tool that leans more heavily on pure titanium power can make the difference between one pass and several. An important reminder, no matter the technology No coating, however advanced, fully protects against repeated heat damage. A heat protectant applied before every styling session, and a temperature matched to your hair type (lower for fine or colored hair, higher only when truly needed for thick hair), are the real factors that determine your hair's long-term health, well before the composition of the plate itself. In summary Ceramic offers gentle, even heat, ideal for fine hair or beginners. Titanium heats up faster and hotter, perfect for thick or very curly hair, but calls for more care. Tourmaline adds an anti-frizz layer through negative ions, a real physical phenomenon, though its exact impact is mostly demonstrated by manufacturers rather than independent studies. In practice, most good tools combine all three technologies, and your final choice should mainly come down to your hair's texture and the temperature your routine actually needs. Gisèle xx
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Hair Density Loss: Best Serums and Supplements for Fine Hair
Density and fine hair Hair density loss: the best serums and supplements for fine hair Serums and supplements with real, studied evidence behind them, not just nice promises on a label. Does your ponytail feel thinner than it used to? Is your part slowly widening, showing more scalp than you'd like? Density loss affects a huge number of people, at any age. And the good news is that there are now active ingredients with real, studied evidence behind them, not just nice promises on a label. Why hair loses density Every hair follows a cycle: an active growth phase (anagen), a short transition phase, then a resting phase (telogen) before it falls out to make room for a new hair. Density loss happens when this cycle gets thrown off balance. More follicles shift into the resting phase, or the hair that grows back gets progressively finer: this is what's known as follicular miniaturization. Several factors can cause this imbalance: genetics (androgenetic alopecia), hormonal fluctuations, a major physical or emotional shock like childbirth or intense stress, nutritional deficiencies, or simply the natural aging of the follicle. Often, it's a combination of several of these factors at once. Minoxidil, the evidence benchmark It's impossible to talk seriously about hair density without mentioning minoxidil. It's, to date, the most thoroughly studied active ingredient, and the only one widely approved by health authorities to stimulate regrowth. It works by extending the hair's growth phase and improving blood flow to the follicle. It's a pharmaceutical product sold in pharmacies, different from the cosmetic serums discussed below. But it's worth keeping in mind as a point of comparison: it's the bar other actives are often measured against. Density-boosting serums Cosmetic serums for density generally rely on patented complexes or on caffeine, which is thought to stimulate the elongation of the hair fiber. AminexylRedensylProcapilCapixylCaffeine 24 wks One study found that a peptide combination produced a higher photographic improvement score than 5% minoxidil over this period. A word of caution: a good portion of these studies are funded or conducted by the manufacturers themselves, often with small sample sizes and short durations (4 to 6 months). It's worth interpreting the results with a critical eye rather than taking them at face value. That said, these serums remain a reasonable cosmetic option to support thinning hair, especially when used consistently over time and combined with a routine that takes care of the whole scalp. The role of supplements Hair supplements (biotin, zinc, collagen, cysteine, vitamin E) are everywhere, but how well they work depends heavily on your starting point. The strongest evidence for biotin, for example, mostly applies to people with an actual deficiency, which is fairly rare. That said, clinical literature does recognize the role nutritional deficiencies (iron, zinc, protein) play in certain types of hair loss, and correcting a documented deficiency can make a measurable difference. In practice, these supplements are mainly useful as ongoing nutritional support, taken over several months, rather than as a standalone miracle fix. And it's always best to check with a healthcare professional before starting a course of supplements, especially if you're pregnant, breastfeeding, or already taking other medications. Building a consistent routine A serum or supplement on its own rarely produces dramatic results. It's the combination of several habits, applied consistently, that makes the difference. 1 Cleanse thoroughlyWithout stripping the scalp, to remove excess sebum and buildup that can slow down growth. 2 Target the rootApply a targeted treatment directly to the scalp, right where the action is needed. 3 Support from withinA dietary supplement, taken for a defined period rather than continuously and indefinitely. 4 Massage regularlyTo stimulate microcirculation in the scalp. 5 Be patientThe hair cycle is slow. First signs after 6 to 12 weeks, optimal results after 3 to 6 months. When to see a professional Gradual, diffuse density loss can often be managed with topical care and a solid routine. But certain signs call for a prompt visit to a doctor, dermatologist, or trichologist: sudden, heavy shedding, well-defined bald patches, persistent scalp itching or redness, or hair loss accompanied by other symptoms like intense fatigue, weight changes, or menstrual irregularities. In summary Density loss rarely has just one cause, and no serum or supplement replaces a proper diagnosis when shedding is sudden or localized. That said, for hair that's gradually thinning, a routine combining a serum with studied active ingredients, a supplement taken as a defined course, and regular scalp care gives you the best chance of visible results over time, with consistency. Gisèle xx
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